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How Do You Get Rid of Ground Elder in a Flower Bed?

By Service Plus Stockholm AB5 min read

Short answer

How do you get rid of ground elder in a flower bed?

You get rid of ground elder by digging up the entire root system, including the white root threads that can lie 20–30 cm down, and then covering the soil with landscape fabric, black plastic or thick cardboard for at least one full growing season to starve out anything left behind. Because every small root fragment can produce a new plant, it often takes several rounds over 1–2 seasons before the bed is completely clear. Simply pulling the weed above ground or rotavating the soil doesn't help, it actually spreads the roots further and makes the problem worse.

Why is ground elder so hard to get rid of?

Ground elder spreads via a network of white, fleshy root runners that grow quickly sideways, often underneath existing perennials and shrubs where they're difficult to reach. Every small root fragment left in the soil, as small as 1–2 cm, can grow into a new plant. This means ordinary weeding rarely does the job, the root has to be removed in its entirety.

  • The root system can lie 20–30 cm deep in the soil
  • Root fragments spread easily when digging or rotavating
  • Ground elder outcompetes newly planted perennials for light and nutrients
  • Seeds are also spread if the plants are allowed to flower

Digging up the ground elder properly is the first step

The most effective way to start is to dig up the entire bed with a spade or fork and sift through the soil for roots. Work in stages, section by section, and remove even the thinnest white root threads.

Soil heavily infested with ground elder shouldn't be reused directly in the bed without sifting or replacing it, otherwise the roots will come back quickly.

  • Dig deep, at least one spade's depth, preferably deeper
  • Sift the soil by hand and pick out every root thread
  • Put the cleared roots in a paper bag, not in the compost
  • Avoid rotavating, it chops up the roots and spreads them further

Cover the soil to starve out what's left

After digging, the next step is to cover the soil so no light reaches any remaining root fragments. Black plastic, landscape fabric or several layers of thick cardboard work well and should stay in place for a full growing season, ideally from spring to autumn.

A heavy material such as wood chips or bark on top keeps the covering in place and looks tidier while waiting for the bed to be replanted.

  • Black plastic sheeting or landscape fabric for at least one season
  • Cardboard in several layers works as a cheap alternative
  • Cover at least 50 cm beyond where the ground elder was visible
  • Check underneath after a few months and clear any new shoots

Keep removing new shoots throughout the season

Any ground elder pushing up through the covering or at the edge of the bed should be pulled up straight away, before the plant has time to build new roots. Checking every two to three weeks throughout the growing season significantly reduces spread.

The earlier each new shoot is removed, the weaker the root system becomes over time, which eventually makes the ground elder give up.

  • Clear new shoots as soon as they appear above ground
  • Pull the whole plant gently to take some root with it
  • Avoid chopping up the shoots, this creates more new plants
  • Keep checking throughout summer and early autumn

Preventing regrowth once the bed is clear

Once the ground elder is gone, the risk of regrowth is reduced by planting the bed densely with ground-covering perennials that leave no bare soil exposed. A root barrier of plastic or metal sunk into the ground also stops ground elder from migrating in from a neighbouring bed or the lawn.

Newly planted plants should be monitored closely during their first season, since ground elder tends to establish itself in freshly disturbed soil before the new plants have had a chance to settle.

  • Plant densely with ground cover such as geranium or vinca
  • Install a root barrier at least 30 cm deep against adjoining areas
  • Avoid leaving bare soil exposed in the bed
  • Keep checking the edges against the lawn or neighbouring areas

How Service Plus helps with ground elder in flower beds

Service Plus Stockholm AB helps homeowners and housing cooperatives (BRFs) clear flower beds of ground elder and other stubborn weeds, either as a one-off job or as part of an ongoing maintenance agreement. The scope depends on the size of the bed and how deep the roots have spread, which Service Plus assesses on site before providing a free quote with a clear price or hourly rate.

Garden cleanup specialist Lövet handles the clearing, covering and the follow-up checks needed to stop the ground elder returning next season.

Common follow-up questions

Can chemical weedkillers be used against ground elder?

Most powerful weedkillers for rhizomatous weeds are heavily restricted or banned for private use in Sweden, so mechanical digging and covering is the safe and legal alternative for most flower beds.

Does it help to just keep cutting the ground elder down?

Repeated cutting weakens the plant over time but takes far longer than digging up the roots and covering the soil, and the roots can still survive for several seasons.

Is ground elder harmful to the lawn or other plants?

Ground elder isn't toxic but competes fiercely for light, water and nutrients, which means nearby perennials and new plantings can easily be smothered if it's allowed to spread freely.

Can ground elder spread back to the bed from the compost?

Yes, root fragments and seeds often survive an ordinary garden compost heap, so cleared ground elder should be put in a paper bag and taken for recycling rather than composted at home.

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